I chose Buttermere after a lot of thought. Two simple reasons made it the perfect lake for a practice swim. For one thing, it’s about two miles long – almost exactly the same length as the course I will follow during the Extra Mile. For another, it doesn’t have anywhere near the same fame as Windermere, Ullswater, and Coniston. No steamers. No rowing boats crowded with overexcited tourists (who can’t row and are apt to catch you a glancing blow with their oars). No people.
Ha. When I reached the head of the lake, I was greeted by a welcoming committee who seemed to have assembled for no other purpose than to watch me strip off and immerse myself in the residue of some glacier. “I will walk to the opposite shore and go from there,” I informed David, my long-suffering friend, chauffeur, lifeguard (not that he’s capable of performing this function), and emergency telephone operator.
“But Vicky, this side is easier. Look, there aren’t as many rocks. What’s the point in going all the way over there?”
“There are trees over there, that’s what. Camouflaging foliage!”
Sighing and muttering in his usual manner, he tripped and slipped over the shingle as I strode determinedly to a more secluded bit of beach.

Several colleagues at work have told me that I’m a very positive person to be around, but as I waded gingerly into the lake I began to wonder whether I might have more positive spirit than sense.
It took me several uncomfortable minutes to immerse myself totally, as the underwater slope is very gradual and it is thick with rocks that hurt my feet. At last I stepped into nothing but water and felt my chest spasm as the cold hit it. The familiar sensation of electricity and adrenaline prickled through my limbs and made them glow. It was icy and it hurt and it was fantastic and it is beautiful and it is one of the most refreshing and exhilarating sensations I know. One more shock of ice as my head went down, and I was swimming.

The continual stream of passers-by on the lakeside did not appear to find the prospect so inviting. There were many hearty shouts of, “You’re brave!” and at least seventeen enquiries after the hydrothermal undercurrents: “Cold, is it? Bit bracing? What do you recken the temperature is?”
Not having thought to stow a thermometer in my swimming costume, I wasn’t able to gratify their curiosity. What is it with British people? If we were caught up in an apocalyptic typhoon we would probably stand around discoursing on the weather. Apart from me, who would be looking for a sheltered place to read. The poems of Sir Walter Scott, most likely. The Lady of the Lake. “Harp of the north! that mouldering long hast hung / On the witch-elm that shades Saint Fillan’s spring…” Eugh, keep your mouth shut. All this water-weed can’t be good for you. And why are you choosing this moment to take a foray into eighteenth-century poetry? Anyone would think you were on the brink of hypothermic delirium. Stop this mental dithering and swim.
Some of the passers-by showed an unusual degree of concern for my welfare. One was a collie dog named Bryn, who came bounding into view just as I rounded a promontory and entered a quiet little cove. I did not welcome the company. “Oh, marvellous. You take me for a giant floating stick, don’t you? You’re going to come in here and – “

But Bryn simply wanted to offer his services as a rescue dog. He scampered up and down the lakeshore, sometimes waiting for me on an outcrop, sometimes shadowing me pace for pace and stroke for stroke. He accompanied me for nearly a mile (occasionally dashing off with an apologetic glance to respond to his owners’ increasingly exasperated whistles, but returning within the minute). Whenever I swam into the shallows, he wagged his tail in encouragement; if I swam farther out, beyond my depth, he barked and would not stop barking until he considered me to be safe again. (His owners told David that he gets quite frantic whenever they take to the water.) Unfortunately I did not get the chance to thank Bryn properly – by the time I got out of the lake I had left all the walkers behind, and I was the only person in a lonely cove.

The air was like warm silk as I stepped out of the water. This is a trick that your mind and body play on you if you have been cold for a long time. It feels like paradise. And you want to wade back in and do it all again.
When I took part in the Great North Swim 2008, it took me an hour and twenty minutes to swim the mile. I was pretty ill on that day and should not have been competing at all, but I pushed my way through it anyway because I have more stubbornness than sense. As I fell further and further behind the other swimmers, my arm strokes making quiet ripples in a pool of cold glimmering sunshine, I wished I could remain in the lake forever and just swim on and on. The race eventually came to its end. I was so weak that I couldn’t get out of the water. I tried to jog up the exit ramp, but I fell over and landed on my knees with a punishing thwack. The crowd oo-ed sympathetically. I smiled in the photographs. I have rarely felt less like smiling in my life.

Yesterday I swam 1.5 miles in an hour. It’s amazing what your body can do for you if you make half an effort to treat it properly.
So, where’s the next lake?